A better mousetrap

Congratulations to Marston's on a genuine innovation

Step change always amazes, catches one by surprise. Technologies become so ingrained over time - be it years, decades, even centuries - that the potential for change becomes limited to incremental, marginal gains within seemingly rigid parameters. The imagination withers.

So congratulations to British brewer Marston’s, who have come up with a genuine outside-the-box innovation regarding cask ale dispense. Historically isinglass finings, the dried and crumpled swim bladders of sturgeon, have been added to casks, creating an opposing electrical charge that has allowed yeast to coagulate and fall out of suspension.

Marston’s fastcask has simplified the process of having yeast work its wonders by creating tiny porous beads of yeast held together by gel. (Marston’s has applied for patents applying to these beads; at the moment the brewer is deliberately vague as to how they have been created.) What is evident is that the beads are heavy enough to drop immediately out of suspension, eliminating the two days stillage norm, as well as making cellar management easier.

This technology could be a boon for the long dwindling (although recently on the rebound) fortunes of cask ale. Marston’s notes that almost half of the UK’s licensed outlets don’t serve cask products; ease of cellaring and dispense will certainly encourage uptake. Cask ale is one of the few USPs left for the British on-trade, as publicans cope with smoking bans, fierce price competition from supermarkets, and the creature comforts of barbeques, wide screen televisions, etcetera, that are available at home.

New this may be, but there’s nothing here to alarm traditionalists. Anyone suggesting that the essence of cask ale is somehow being altered would be mistaken. In describing the role of the gel that binds the yeast Martston's uses the analogy of the adoption of tea bags which consigned to the margins loose leaf tea brewing; it's an apt anology. Prior to launching fastcask the Campaign for Real Ale was approached by Marston's for their approval; as reported first here today CAMRA chief executive Mike Benner has described Marston’s innovation as suitable for real ale.

All of this happiness leaves two questions. First, in an industry where brewers are for the most part incredible gossips, how did Marston’s manage to keep this under wraps for three years?

Secondly, does anyone know who came up with the idea of using fish bladders as a means of clarifying beer and other liquids? The genesis of this insight may well be shrouded in the mists of time; anyone who does know the history would be most welcome to comment here. But it’s worth noting that as slightly preposterous as yeast gel beads sounds now; imagine trying to explain the use of fish bladders to unsuspecting drinkers centuries ago.